Disclaimer: The following procedure has served me and others well. The author has followed it to winterize my tournament inboard boat and perform some of the recommended annual maintenance for several years now. While this procedure has worked well for me, the Tyler Ski Club and the author make no guarantees or warranties as to its universal reliability in or effectiveness to all applications. If you have any doubt concerning your ability to do this job yourself or as to the reliability or completeness of the information presented here, please consult a professional marine mechanic. Good luck.


Dewinterization Checklist


1.  Remove Tape from exhaust flaps.

2.  Check exhaust pipes and bilge for rodents or other nesting animals. Clean as necessary.

3.  Install new impeller and gasket. Coat it with dish soap or other water based lubricant before hand so it doesn't get dry started.

4.  Reinstall fully charged battery. Always attach positive terminal first, then the negative terminal.

5.  Reconnect all hoses (if you used antifreeze, the hoses and plugs will still be installed).

6.  Reinstall engine block plugs and exhaust manifold drain plugs (and knock sensor if applicable). If you didn't do this at winterization, put some Teflon tape on the plug threads to make them easier to get out next winter.

7.  Replace fuel filter and or fuel water separator.

8.  Replace spark plugs.

9.  On some boats, cycle the key on for 5 seconds, and then off (don't crank the engine). Do this 3 times and allow 10 seconds between cycles in the off position. This allows the fuel pump to prime the fuel lines.

10.  Connect your boat to a water source or flushing device and start the engine. If it doesn't turn over right away, allow a two minute cool down for every 30 seconds of cranking. Let it warm up to operating temperature. Keep a close watch on the gauges and listen for any abnormal noises.

11.  For those of use with teak platforms, break out the teak oil and make it shine.

* On carbureted engines boats, check the fuel screen on the carburetor where it connects to the fuel line. Be careful reinstalling the fuel line. Overtorquing it can cause it to leak.

**Additionally, for owners of boats with carbureted engines, once the boat is warmed up and on the water for real, you may be well served by slowly pouring about half a can of "Sea Foam" in the throat of the carb. Shut it down for 20 minutes. Pour the rest of the "Sea Foam" in the gas tank. After 20 minutes has passed, crank it up and drive it like you stole it until you are no longer blowing white smoke out the exhaust.